🔗 Share this article All Cook Ought to Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants. When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London. An Surprise Honour This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked. “I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list. The Charm of Simplicity The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner. A Signature Offering: Tantuni However, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture. The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside. It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together. Beyond the Classic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile. Outranking the Stars Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations. While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure. A Philosophy of Hospitality It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner. “In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”. A Journey of Hard Work In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son. Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort. “My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects. An Recognition for the Culture The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.